Troubleshooting Support

Fewer Troubles. More DIY.

If there’s an issue while you’re applying the hydrographics, take a look here to see if you find the solution.

If you can’t find the solution here, our customer support team is standing by to help.

The Film Melted As Soon As I Laid It In The Water (Before Spraying The Activator).

You missed one of several steps. You need to have a properly taped border.

Also, water may have gotten on the top of the film after laying it in the water, or there was an activator left in the container from a previous dip.

After each dip, you need to change the water and wipe out the inside of the container.

After Spraying The Activator Some Parts Of The Film Melt And Some Do Not.

It is important that when you spray the activator over the film that you spray in a smooth motion, covering the film evenly with the activator. Spray straight down or at a slight angle with the can.

After Spraying The Film Spread Out Too Much / Melted.

Did you leave only (about) a one inch space between your taped film and the border of your container on all four sides?

If you don’t contain the film it spreads out quickly and ruins the pattern. Also, you may have used too much activator or waited too long to dip.

The Print Looked Great Then Smeared Off.

There could be several reasons for this, all of which are caused by not following the directions. Most commonly the cause is too much activator, or you sprayed the activator unevenly, or you let the activator sit on the film for too long.

You’ll also have this problem if you don’t tape a border around your film and provide the right amount of space between your bordered film and the edges of the container.

 

The Print Looked Great But Had Air Bubbles.

Not enough activator was used or you didn’t give enough time for the activator to work. You dip when the film is liquefied but don’t wait so long that the pattern melts.

As long as you don’t go overboard with the activator this is usually around the 15 – 20 second mark. The directions say 20 seconds after the activator has been sprayed, yet I see people complaining even though they dipped immediately, or waited almost a minute to dip.

The Part Printed Great Then Started To Eat Into The Base Coat.

You let the part stand out too long before rinsing it off. After printing, wait 60 – 90 seconds and place the part under running water. If you just set the part to the side it will continue its adhesion process.

Can I Touch Up A Small Imperfection?

Yes, spray some activator into a small container. Use a small brush, dip into the activator then rub the brush onto a piece of the film. 

You can dilute some of the ink from the carrier and dap it onto the area you wish to touch up. After this procedure, wait 60 – 90 seconds and rinse the part under running water.

How Do I Know Which Side Of The Film To Put Down In The Water?

Spray a small amount of activator on a rag and rub on the corner of the film. Whichever side you see the image start to come off is the side that will be facing up.

Also, you can leave a sliver of film outside of your taped border, wet your fingers and touch both sides. The side that is sticky is the side that goes down into the water.

How Do I Lay The Film In The Water?

Hold the film from opposite diagonal corners and slowly release the film.

When And How Long Should I Rinse My Part After Dipping?

Wait 60 – 90 seconds after dipping to rinse. Rinse as long as necessary to remove the residue – otherwise your finished product will have an unattractive sticky sheen.

Your Title Goes HereHow much film will I need for each part?

For a flat piece leave an inch of film around each side of the piece. For a 3-dimensional object (something with sides, corners, or curves) you’ll need enough film to cover the entire surface area of the object plus an inch left over on each side.

Do I need to change the water after each dip?

Yes. Also wipe down the inside of the container to remove any activator.