Frequently Asked Questions
These are the most freqenty asked questions by customers.
Please review these FAQs and if your question is still unanswered, please Contact Us.
Yes, dipping instructions are included on the back of the label on your dipping tube. You can also download a multi-page instruction sheet. These instructions are exactly the same as the ones you receive with your kit but are formatted to print on your home printer if you want a physical copy. Download My Dip Kit Instructions.
Basically, any hard surface you can get the base coat to adhere to you can dip.
The process is straight forward; if you can follow instruction you can dip an object.
Yes, depending on the configuration of the part some can be more difficult than others.
Yes, different base colors will affect the look of some patterns.
For plastics; scuff until the shine comes off. In general, just scuff up the item uniformly across all parts of the item to be dipped. Some materials are softer than others. Don’t leave any gouges in the part. If this happens you will have to sand down the item. The surface should be smooth after scuffing. Then wash the part with the scuff pad provided. Refer to the instructions that came with the kit for full details.
With several light coats. Wait for each coat to dry before moving on to the next coat. Make sure to get complete coverage. Remember, you must paint your item within 24 hours of applying the primer.
No, any water from a clean supply is adequate.
It is important that when you spray the activator over the film that you hold the can level. You must have even coverage on the film.
There could be several reasons for this, all of which are caused by not following the directions. Most commonly the cause is too much activator, or you sprayed the activator unevenly, or you let the activator sit on the film for too long. You’ll also have this problem if you don’t tape a border around your film and provide the right amount of space between your bordered film and the edges of the container.
Not enough activator was used or you didn’t give enough time for the activator to work. You dip when the film is liquefied but don't wait so long that the pattern melts. As long as you don’t go overboard with the activator this is usually around the 15 - 20 second mark. The directions say 20 seconds after the activator has been sprayed, yet I see people complaining even though they dipped immediately, or waited almost a minute to dip.
The part was processed too flat into the film and trapped air.
The water or oil reached the area to be printed before the film. The film will not adhere to a wet or damp surface. After painting your item do not touch it with your bare hands as the oils from your skin can interfere with the printing process. You will also see voids if you try to dip both sides of an item at once. For example, a shotgun stock should be prepared, painted, and primed, and then have half of the item taped off with masking tape or painters tape. Dip the painted side. Rinse and repeat with the other side.
You let the part stand out too long before rinsing it off. After printing wait 60 – 90 seconds and place the part under running water. If you just set the part to the side it will continue its adhesion process.
Yes, spray some activator into a small container. Use a small brush, dip into the activator then rub the brush onto a piece of the film. You can dilute some of the ink from the carrier and dap it onto the area you wish to touch up. After this procedure wait 60 – 90 seconds and rinse the part under running water.
Spray a small amount of activator on a rag and rub on the corner of the film. Whichever side you see the image start to come off is the side that will be facing up. Also, you can leave a sliver of film outside of your taped border, wet your fingers and touch both sides. The side that is sticky is the side that goes down into the water.
For a flat piece leave an inch of film around each side of the piece. For a 3-dimensional object (something with sides, corners, or curves) you’ll need enough film to cover the entire surface area of the object plus an inch left over on each side.
Yes. Also wipe down the inside of the container to remove any activator.
Hold the film like a sling from opposite diagonal corners and slowly release the film.
There is no need to buy fancy equipment. For under $10 you can buy a pool thermometer that will work fine.
Yes! The film needs to flow! If you contain the film with a proper border the image will expand after spraying the activator, but will be contained and not distort.
Just about anything. Read the instructions before deciding on what size. A container can be too big, but not too small. And you can always dip a small item in a large container by creating a border for the film using tape.
The container I’m using is larger than I need for some of my parts. I don’t want to waste film or buy several containers. What should I do?
You can create an artificial border using tape.
Wait 60 – 90 seconds after dipping to rinse. Rinse as long as necessary to remove the residue – otherwise your finished product will have an unattractive sticky sheen.
You can buy additional supplies at the MyDipKit website where you will find additional film, activator and any other supplies you need. This is an opportunity to try out a new pattern.
Applying masking tape to the bottom of the item to create a handle can work wonders!
Ok I’m sold already! How do I get started up with my own business doing this on a professional level?
I’ve seen many people on the MyDipKit Facebook page transform from hobbyists into small business owners. There are so many ways to turn this into a money-making venture. You can contact them to talk about getting high grade equipment and when you get into business with them you get a huge discount on supplies (film, activator, paint, etc.). If you’re serious about getting into business contact them at [email protected].
You missed one of several steps. You need to have a properly taped border. Also, water may have gotten on the top of the film after laying it in the water, or there was activator left in the container from a previous dip. After each dip, you need to change the water AND wipe out the inside of the container.
It is important that when you spray the activator over the film that you spray in a smooth motion, covering the film evenly with activator. Spray straight down or at a slight angle with the can.
Did you leave only (about) a one inch space between your taped film and the border of your container on all four sides? If you don’t contain the film it spreads out quickly and ruins the pattern. Also, you may have used too much activator or waited too long to dip.
Do you ship your products? How fast can I get them and how much does shipping cost? Where do you ship from?
All shipments are sent ground delivery. The kit contains aerosol products that, due to federal law, cannot be shipped via air. Orders are processed and leave our facility within 3 to 5 business days, excluding holidays after payment confirmation. Because of size restrictions of the product, it cannot be delivered to a P.O. Box.
Orders placed on this website are for shipment within the Continental U.S. and Canada only.
UPS does normally require a signature at delivery. However, you can leave a signed notice on your door for UPS to leave the package on your doorstep without having someone sign for it. It is at the driver's discretion to leave the package; if they feel it is safe to do so.
MyDipKit.com is ONLY required to charge sales tax if we are shipping your product to an address within the state of Texas.
Due to the nature of the kit, we cannot accept returns. As we cannot ensure the products being returned are re-useable.
If it's on the website then it is in stock. Out of stock items will show "Out of Stock" and not let you purchase the item or add it to your cart.
We prefer that you place your order on our website. If you need assistance, our phone number and email address can be found on our Contact Page
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